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Training for a Mount Kilimanjaro trek

March 31, 2023

I’ve had a few people reach out to me about how I trained for the Mount Kilimanjaro trek, (and I also want to remind myself of what I’m capable of), so I’m pulling it all together here. It’s a blend of weightlifting, cardio, Peloton, outdoor activity, and Wim Hof method.

Here we go:

THE BASIC PLAN

I started ramping up my cardio and doing long hikes many months in advance. But as the date of my trip creeped closer, I got serious about training. This 12-week training plan was my basic outline, and my friends who summited used this too. Because I work, have a family, and juggle a freelance career, I did modify the plan on occasion, but I tried to stick to it as best I could.

CARDIO

For cardio, I rode my Peloton a lot. For my “fun” rides, I opted for Jess King’s sweat steady rides or HIIT classes from my favorite instructors. But I primarily focused on doing Power Zone challenges — these are 6-8 week challenges of Power Zone classes, which use your individual functional threshold power for a customized workout to improve endurance, performance, and strength. I think PZ classes are also particularly effective for improving VO₂ max, the amount of oxygen your body can take in and use during exercise, and that was a priority for me. I’ve struggled with asthma my entire life, and I was nervous about the thin air at Kilimanjaro’s extremely high altitudes.

WEIGHTS

I also knew I had to get stronger in order to carry a heavy pack for several hours each day, scramble up rocks, etc. I have a set of free weights that I use at home, and I used those to do the IRON series from Caroline Girvan on YouTube. I won’t lie — these classes are HARD. Some days my muscles trembled for hours afterward. But they’re great. It’s like having the world’s best personal trainer in your house.

YOGA

Power yoga was recommended by both my pulmonologist and a friend who has summited Mount Whitney, so I added that into the mix too. It was beneficial for keeping me flexible, but also for learning to regulate my breath with strenuous movement. I took Peloton’s yoga classes, but you could do classes from anywhere. (One thing about me and yoga: I always have to force myself to do it, even though I feel great afterward and love having done it. So if you feel the same way, you’re not alone.)

OUTDOORS

Outdoor workouts were also a huge part of my training. In addition to long hikes, I also walked up the steepest road in my neighborhood, sometimes wearing a backpack weighted with dumbbells, sometimes wearing my friend’s baby in a carrier on my back.

In my case, the steepest road around is Tramway Road, which climbs 1,800 feet in 3.7 miles, and I grew to love my sunrise walks there. (We just moved away, and I miss that road more than I expected, especially considering how many times I cursed at it.)

WIM HOF

Are you familiar with Wim Hof? He’s a Dutch madman who plunges himself into ice, performs extreme athletic feats, and can hold his breath for six minutes at a time. And I completely and wholly believe in his methods. I first learned about him in a wacky GOOP documentary, I’m embarrassed to admit. Then he led a breathwork session on my favorite meditation app, and I felt tingly and high just from breathing. (That was on Insight Timer, but sadly his session has been removed.)

To prepare for Kili, I knew that cold exposure and increasing my lung capacity would be helpful, so I cobbled together some Wim Hof training on my own. I read everything I could about the guy and his techniques. I downloaded Wim’s app, paid for some of the trainings, and practiced his breathing method. I don’t have an ice bath for cold plunges, so I did cold water for the last few minutes of every shower (I increased the cold water time over a period of months). You can also find instructors trained in the Wim Hof method all over the world.


Overall, I worked very hard long before I ever saw the mountain, and then I worked very hard to summit it. And I discovered that I’m stronger and more determined than I ever realized.


Pinkeye from Vishnu

March 21, 2012

I hesitate to even tell people that I went to an ashram in India on my trip around the world, because it brings up the inevitable comparison.

“OMG, you’re like ‘Eat, Pray, Love!'”

I mean, there are worse things to be likened to than an Oprah-endorsed, best-selling phenomenon. But I wish we could acknowledge and honor the stories of women without comparing them all the time. My journey was not Elizabeth Gilbert’s journey, and the road she traveled wasn’t mine. We just happen to be two women with backpacks.

Still, it happened that I ended up at an ashram in India.

It was located in the southern part of India, where vines and palms tangle around swampy backwaters. There was supposedly a zoo nearby, even though there wasn’t a town or a city in the vicinity. But every sunrise we could hear the lions roar.

I wish I could say my original intention was spiritual enlightenment. But I was coming off nine months of constant travel, followed by a blurry string of beach parties in Goa. More than enlightenment, I needed a purpose. I needed a schedule. I needed to lay on a mat and stretch my limbs to the sky and breathe. So I went.

It took three rickety buses through the countryside, one long walk and a wheezing rickshaw up a ribbon-like road, but I finally got there.

I fully committed myself to the ashram. I didn’t bring any forbidden goods, like alcohol, onto the property. I didn’t sneak out for a smoke. I didn’t skip any lessons. I didn’t half-ass it.

Instead, I greeted the blackness of morning with chants of “Jai Ganesh” until the sun rose.

I joined 200 people in a chorus of “Om”  until the resonance became so deep and strong that it vibrated the chambers of my heart.

I sat crosslegged on the floor, scooped rice and runny lentils with my hand, ate in silence.

I slept naked under a mosquito net.

And then I waited.

I waited for that moment — enlightenment, clarity, bliss. Whatever it is that people are supposed to feel at an ashram, I wanted to feel it too.

I did my part, after all. I was present. I was open. I was expectant. And when it comes to spirituality, isn’t that the bulk of the battle? Just showing up?

This was also a particularly vulnerable time, since I had lost my mother just two months prior. So I did a lot of meditating and marinating while I let grief unzip me. If there was ever someone ripe for a divine moment, it was me — literally down on my knees in a temple, pleading for something, anything.

When those prayers went unanswered, I turned my efforts outward. I climbed mountains. I sang to the sun as she tossed scarves of color into the sky. I turned my face up to the heavens and said, “Come on. Give me everything you’ve got.”

Nothing happened.

I thought it would come in a bolt of lightning or something equally dramatic. I figured it would be like the conversion of  Saul to Paul in the New Testament, a familiar story to every classically-trained Christian. Basically, Saul was traveling the streets of Damascus when he saw a bright flash of light and the resurrected figure of Jesus. The event caused Saul to go temporarily blind, at which point he changed his name to Paul and became (arguably) the greatest disciple of all. It was amazing. The dude went blind!

Meanwhile, I begged for something to happen. And Vishnu only gave me pinkeye.

After I left the ashram, I traveled to Kanyakumari, the town at the very bottom tip of India. In a country full of spiritual places, Kanyakumari is among the most special and sacred. This is the confluence of three major bodies of water — the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean.

It is where millions of travelers, missionaries and pilgrims have entered the continent. It is where Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were released back into the world. And according to Hindu legend, this is where an avatar of Parvati was set to marry Siva. When he failed to show up for his wedding, the rice that was supposed to feed the guests washed ashore, turning into the rocks that form the beach today.

I hiked up my leggings and waded into the water. It was as warm as tears. Around me, pilgrims tossed pink flowers into the waves, where they drifted out into forever.

Maybe enlightenment never really comes in a force of nature. Maybe it is just the gentle intersection of waves. It ebbs and flows, taking things away, returning again, washing over all of us.

—–

This post is part of the Scintilla Project, a fortnight of storytelling.

Bend it like Bikram

March 1, 2012

One day I decided to spend 90 minutes in a room that was hotter than the desert. On purpose. And pay for it.

This activity was inspired by my co-worker at the newspaper, who wrote a series in which readers challenged him to try new experiences. His list of challenges included playing high school football, dressing up like a team mascot and driving a boat at a fancy resort. Also on that list? A Bikram yoga class.

I don’t remember my friend’s impressions of the class or the resulting article. All I know was that he didn’t die. And that was really important to someone like me, who wasn’t very athletic and thought Bikram was only for hardcore yogis.

After his experience, some of my other co-workers decided to go too — and when they asked me to join them, I immediately said yes. It’s like when your parents challenge you with, “Well if everybody else jumps off a bridge, would you?” Yes. The answer is yes. If everybody else does yoga for 90 minutes in a humid, 105-degree room, I will do it too. I like to be a part of things, even when that thing is sweaty, uncomfortable and certain to give me inner-thigh chub rub.

The studio was situated in a gritty strip mall. Inside it was dim and dank. The mirrors on every wall oozed with condensation.

It was surreal to walk inside a building that was hotter and more humid than the 100-degree desert day outside. The air was immediately suffocating. It tasted damp and hairy, like someone shoved a wool mitten down my throat.

The teacher enjoyed being nude, so she often shed her clothes outside class. Although I’m in the “every body is beautiful” camp, it made me a little uncomfortable to hand over my credit card to a naked woman. In that way, I am a prude.

Unlike many types of yoga, which can vary depending on the studio, teacher and students, Bikram classes are very strict and uniform. There are 26 postures and two breathing exercises. Each pose is done in a specific order, and teachers are never supposed to stray from that 90-minute routine.

This teacher’s instruction was the opposite of every yoga class I’ve ever taken: She said to push beyond our limits, be uncomfortable, make it painful.

Humiliation was another part of her repertoire. She mocked the co-worker who inspired the rest of us, saying, “Corpse pose is the only pose he can do. Get it? Because he is so lazy and out of shape!” She made fun of me and said my enormous body would get in the way of ever doing yoga properly. At one point, she swiftly kicked me in the legs when she said my knees weren’t locked enough.

A week later she called me on my cell phone to complain about my co-worker. I told her I didn’t appreciate the call and that it wasn’t professional to berate her students — especially to other students. In return, she told me I was fat.

And yes, I paid $20 for all that.

Now, many years later, I have a new job. And a new co-worker. And when she said, “Hey, do you want to go to this Bikram class with me?” I immediately said yes. Part of it was that I wanted to be That Girl — the girl who dashes off to yoga class after work with her fun, bouncy colleague. And then part of it was a mental hiccup. I kinda forgot what the class entailed. I only brought a teeny-weenie towel and a small bottle of water, completely forgetting that this scenario will make me sweat buckets and could potentially give me heat stroke.

But do you want to know the biggest reason I showed up on that mat that day? Because I couldn’t let one horrible teacher to define an entire type of yoga for me. This is my body, and this is my yoga practice. When I determine my feelings about Bikram, I want it to be because I gave it a fair shot.

So my co-worker and I went to a studio that was completely different than the place I went before. It was clean. The instructor wore clothes. I was only chastised once — when I left class to refill my small bottle of water.

And you know what? I STILL didn’t enjoy the Bikram class. I like asanas that are more flowy, like physical meditation. I like yoga that feels like an accomplishment, not a punishment. I turn to the mat to nurture my body, not torture it.

I know plenty of people who embrace Bikram, who feel rejuvenated by the classes, who are energized by the heat and the postures, but I am not one of them — and that’s OK. Not all styles of yoga are suitable for every body.

But I’m proud of myself for trying. For opening myself up again. And for deciding that if I can’t take the heat, stay out of the Bikram.

 

Month of fun: Day 24

September 24, 2011

Sometimes I forget what yoga does for me. It becomes a chore to drag the mat out. I think, “Oh, I’ll do some yoga later. Or tomorrow. Or next Saturday.” I have to force yoga upon myself, like a child eating her spinach, and then I spend the first few downward-facing dogs cursing the whole world.

You know where this story is going, right? By the end of yoga class, I’m humming “Kumbayah,” waving my peace flag and shining with sparkly love, gratitude and light like a big granola star. I swear I can even feel my cells dancing.

And that happens every single time I try to talk myself out of yoga. You’d think I would learn.

It’s the same thing that happened to me at the ashram in India. I was doing four hours of yoga a day, not drinking any alcohol, getting loads of sleep, meditating, eating a sattvic diet. I felt beyond fabulous. Then as soon as I was off ashram grounds, I had a bottle of cheap Indian wine in one hand, a bag of potato chips in the other and 10 clove cigarettes in my mouth. At the same time. And then I was all, “Why do I feel like crap? That ashram didn’t do anything for me.”

I actively buck and scream and fight the things that make me feel good. It’s tiresome and pointless.

Well, today I think I finally learned. I forced myself out of bed — away from stacks of fluffy pillows, a hunky husband and a freshly brewed pot of coffee — and headed to Ruth Hardy Park in Palm Springs.

 

Every Saturday there’s free yoga in the wellness park, a lovely gift from Power Yoga Palm Springs.

During the sweltering summer months classes begin at 8 a.m. Next week, (that’s Oct. 1, if you’re keeping track), yoga in the park will resume at its normal 10 a.m. time.

Founder Janet Vance says on her website that the class is “inspired by nature, a love of yoga and dream to make yoga accessible to all by removing barriers such as price, props and intimidating settings.” That means no mirrors, no chanting, no billowing clouds of incense. Just sweet birds, powerful trees and a desert sky hung so high and proud, you can’t help but feel invigorated.

It feels less like a workout class and more like a bunch of good friends getting together for a 90-minute shot of serotonin.

Here’s a photo I stole borrowed from Janet’s site.

 

Today’s class was like a complete reboot for my system. I left there as giddy as a toddler with cotton candy toys.

And it only took one teensy, positive step forward to make me feel the way I should all the time.

 

Finding my balance

April 16, 2011

I lost my balance in Dahab, Egypt.

Physically, I mean.

I was staying at the amazing El Salam Camp and Yoga Shala. During marathon late-night yoga sessions, in an idyllic setting where night and stars rolled in on the Red Sea waves, I found myself inexplicably toppling over on the mat.

This photo was lovingly ganked from the El Salam website.

 

It was very strange. Even when I can’t do bendy poses, I’ve always been able to hold my own in the balance asanas. Maybe I can’t slip into lotus or touch my toes to my head in scorpion, but I can rock a motherforking tree pose.

Not me doing tree.

 

Shifting my weight to one leg, rooting myself into the ground, gently balancing the sole of the other foot against my inner thigh, keeping my eyes focused straight ahead — I got that.

Except in Dahab. For the first time ever, I couldn’t keep my balance. My leg was unsteady, my posture unstable. I tipped over. I fell. I tried again. My knee shook, my leg wavered. I faltered. I fell.

I’m embarrassed to say that it took me far too long to draw a connection between my physical loss of balance and my emotional one. Because during that time in Dahab, my grandmother passed away, followed a few days later by my mother’s death.

No wonder I couldn’t hold a tree pose. I could barely hold a toothbrush.

Those days were all itchy and unsettled. I slept with my eyes open. I dreamt when I was awake. I was detached, like some kind of alien pretending to be a human. A lot of people offered me love, and I didn’t know how to accept it. Even my body felt lonely, because there was nobody inhabiting it.

Instead of being compassionate with myself, I tried even harder to achieve balance. But as you probably know, the more you try to force something the more elusive it becomes.

I’m in a different place now, both physically and mentally, and a couple pages on the calendar have been torn away. I wouldn’t say my wounds have healed, but they’re slowly getting some scar tissue.

Yesterday I took another yoga class, this time at Wild Rose Yoga in Chiang Mai, Thailand. The instructor told us to focus on the theme of impermanence. He used the Thai new year festival of Songkran as an example — when you’re in the thick of the party and the water-throwing action, you’re giddy, elated, excited. But it’s not long before the fun stops, the wind kicks in, the air gets cold — pretty soon you’re unhappy, grumpy, uncomfortable.

Everything is impermanent.

The way sunrise and sunset effortlessly tumble through each day, so it is with our feelings. Our emotions are fluid. Happiness doesn’t last. Pain and sadness don’t either. They just feel like they do.

At one point in the class, we were all holding chair pose, a squatty posture that kills your glutes in two seconds flat. As everyone groaned and sweated, the instructor reminded us that physical sensations are impermanent too. He said that 10 seconds from now, we’ll forget the burn was ever there at all.

He was right.

My balance is back. I held tree pose for several minutes tonight just to prove it to myself. But now I accept these things are constantly in flux. Maybe I’ll fall over tomorrow. Maybe I’ll get back up the day after that.

This is life — shaky and unstable — and I’m just doing my best to keep up with the flow.

Dakini, the rockinest yoga babe out there.

 

** A special shout-out to all my yoga stars, every teacher and friend I’ve met on the mat along the way. As I travel around the world from class to class, you have all taught me incredibly powerful lessons. Thank you for your insight, your love and your light.