Monthly Archives

January 2011

10 things I learned from my mom’s funeral

January 26, 2011

My mother always wanted to travel, but she put it off until “someday.” “After the kids leave home,” she said. “After your dad retires. After we have more savings.”

Then she was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s Disease, and her health declined quickly. She never left Ohio again. She never saw the places she dreamt about. She never had the opportunity to do the things she said she would do.

That’s why my mother was my biggest inspiration for my trip around the world. Her disease taught me to go one step beyond the Nike motto: “Just do it — NOW.”

So even though it’s bittersweet, it’s somewhat fitting that my mom passed away during my global adventure. Her life inspired me to travel to far-flung places, learn about other cultures and seek out new experiences. But her death brought me back home again — and it taught me even more in the process.

10. As much as love brings people together, grief is even more universal. On Christmas, my father told me that my mother wasn’t doing well. So for a couple weeks, I wandered around Egypt in complete shock, talking about my mom to everybody who would listen. A Bedouin man, who barely understood my language, understood enough to comfort me. “She will be more comfortable soon,” he said, wrapping me in a warm hug. He had lost a mother too.

9. Friends are everywhere. When I needed people to nurture me, support me and love me, complete strangers stepped up to the plate. The day my mom died, an English woman gave me an hour-long foot massage, which seemed to rub a lot of the negative energy, sadness and frustration right out of me. An Egyptian man made me tea and let me babble until my throat was raw. A German girl offered her shoulder to cry on. I had more hugs than I could count. I suddenly had an international support system, and it reinforced my belief that we are all somehow connected.

8. We never realize how many people we touch until it’s too late. Before I left Egypt, someone asked, “Will there be many people at your mom’s funeral?” I shook my head no. “Unfortunately, she didn’t have many friends,” I said. It turns out that I was so wrong. I was surprised and overwhelmed by the number of people who showed up for the service, and I know my mom would have been truly touched. I wish she could have known how many people really loved and respected her.

7. Compassion matters. Every word, every e-mail message, every pot of soup, every card, every flower — it all meant so much to my family and me. I didn’t know how important it was to simply be around when someone loses a loved one.

6. Every moment is important. I set up a little tree branch at my mother’s funeral, then I encouraged guests to write their special memories on a card and hang it from the tree. Somebody wrote on one of the cards, “When I was a little boy coming to church, Heide watched out for me and helped me. I still go to church today because of her.” We often forget how a simple act of kindness can encourage, motivate and inspire others.

5. You are never prepared. My mother had Alzheimer’s for 10 years before she died. I knew it was coming. I thought I had grieved. I believed I had closure. But when the end finally arrived, it felt far too quick, and my heart filled with pain like I never knew before.

4. We all deserve to die with strength and dignity. Alzheimer’s creates a shell where there was once a person. Please help put a stop to this heinous disease (and other neurological disorders) by supporting the research efforts of the Alzheimer’s Association.

3. Food nutures us. I can’t say enough about the healing powers of food. As my family was in the throes of sorrow, we were so thankful to have friends who brought us lasagna, soup, salad, bread and just about anything else. Every bite was filled with love and comfort, and we were truly nourished by it.

2. Say what you feel. Do you love somebody? Do you appreciate what somebody does? Is there somebody who makes your life better? Tell them.

1. Do it now. Live the life you’ve always wanted. Travel. Dance. Laugh. Love. Do karate. Run a marathon. Have a baby. Skydive. Go back to school. Soar in a hot air balloon. Scuba dive. Take an extra bite of cake. Kiss someone. Chop off your hair. Buy an expensive bottle of champagne, just for the hell of it. Do it now, because “someday” is too late.

 

The final gift

January 21, 2011

As I’ve been doing volunteer work, making personal connections and learning about our global community on this round-the-world trip, I’d like to think I’ve helped create some goodness on this earth.

But nothing compares with my mother’s final gift to the world.

Her brain has been donated for Alzheimer’s research.

Her gift might help stop a tragic disease.

Her gift might prevent another family from losing a loved one.

It was incredibly courageous for my family to make this donation, and I can’t find enough words to express the depth of my pride.

My mom was an extraordinary woman in life — and she continues to be after her death too.

 

Going home to say goodbye

January 12, 2011

Yesterday, when my mom died, there was the most extraordinary sky, where the sea and the air seemed to fuse into one.

Photographers lined the boardwalk in Dahab, oohing and aahing over the magnificent colors and the abundance of beauty. And I bet they had no idea it was just my mother saying goodbye.

I’m going home for a little while. The world tour continues Jan. 27.

 

Egypt: The good, the bad and the really, really ugly

January 10, 2011
Soon after The Husband arrived in Cairo, we decided to brave the subway system during rush hour.
A crush of people funneled into the already crammed cars, with everybody pushing, shoving and screaming in Arabic. We instinctively moved for the quiet, subdued car that only had a handful of people inside.
Once safely inside, we each breathed a sigh of relief. Then my husband looked around.
“There are only women on this car,” he said.
“So? Lucky you!”
“No, I don’t think I’m supposed to be here,” he said.
Just then an old lady approached him and spit in his face, “Ladies only!”
We panicked, screamed and scrambled into the next car — which was filled with only men. I screamed again and ran around in circles, looking like some kind of deranged chicken. I cursed and shouted random metro stops at my husband. “Oh shit oh shit oh shit. Hadayeq El-Maadi! Or was it Thakanat El-Maadi? No, I think it’s El-Malek El-Saleh! Just exit this car in three stops!”
I finally hopped onto the ladies car just as the train was leaving the station.
That incident quickly made me realize that Egypt is dramatically different from any other place I’ve visited. First off, Egypt comes with numerous religious traditions to respect, unwritten rules to follow, cultural landmines to navigate. I think I offended 15 people in my first hour, and I wasn’t even trying.
On top of that, communication is difficult. Even when I didn’t speak the language in South America, I could at least make an English-French sandwich and come up with something that vaguely resembled Spanish. However, Arabic is an entirely different game: The script is beautiful but unintelligible to my eye, the words feel clunky on my fat tongue, and the numbers look like punctuation.
Overall, it’s been difficult. In the three weeks I’ve spent here, I’ve found a lot to love about Egypt — but only after a lot of frustration. To break it down:
THE GOOD

Pyramids. They’re every bit as awesome as you’d expect.

Temples, hieroglyphs and things older than Jesus.

Wonderful hikes, camel rides, diving and exploring, all with stunning scenery.

Dahab, a tiny slice of heaven at the Red Sea and my personal version of paradise. This is where I am resting, healing and getting strong again.

THE BAD

Smog, pollution and garbage everywhere. (This one is mostly directed at you, Cairo.) Also questionable sanitary conditions.

Constant harassment from vendors who won’t take no for an answer. My husband and I were tricked, followed, even physically assaulted by vendors. It’s exhausting, and it’s what tainted some experiences that should have been magical.

Aggressive men. The sexist and inappropriate behavior goes way beyond catcalls. I have been groped, slapped, smacked and fondled. Men deliberately walk into me and paw at my chest, grab my ass, reach between my legs. (Keep in mind that I have also been dressing modestly in pants, long-sleeve shirts and a scarf around my hair.)

Blatant ripoffs. For instance, the menus at restaurants often list a price in Arabic numbers, which is half as much as the inflated tourist price.

Bribes, payoffs and corruption. For instance, it is strictly forbidden to touch the Great Pyramid of Giza. So when I got close to it and a policeman ran up to me, I put my hands in the air and backed away to make it clear that I wasn’t doing anything wrong. The policeman said, “You want to touch it?” I said no. He urged me to put my hands on it. Again, I shook my head no. Finally he said, “You can touch it. It’s OK —  just give me baksheesh.” (i.e. a tip.)

THE UGLY

A terrible incident took place when my husband and I toured a temple on Elephantine Island.

A security guard ushered my husband and I into the temple ruins. Then he separated the two of us. He forced my husband to go with a guide into another part of the temple, then he pushed me into a secluded corner. Before I could comprehend what was happening, the guard nudged his gun against my hip and tried to smash his rotten teeth against my mouth. I firmly said, “No!” but he tried again. I slid away and managed to avoid him until I was reunited with my husband.

Afterward, both the guard and the guide wanted a tip, which we ultimately shelled out just to get rid of them.

So yeah. That right there had me longing for the ladies car on the subway — and sad that I felt that way.

 

Getting a name

January 8, 2011

When I met the Bedouin man in Egypt, he said he could help me find authentic souvenirs at a good price. Like my name written in flowy Arabic letters, crafted out of pure silver.
I loved that idea. It would be like Carrie’s nameplate necklace from “Sex and the City,” but with an international twist.
Because the Bedouin man had become a friend, we purchased the necklace through him, sight unseen. My husband shelled out both money and trust.
And then we received the necklace.

The crudely fashioned pendant was slightly tarnished and scratched. The chain was twisted. There was no clasp. And on the top right corner, where the “M” attached to the chain, there appeared to be a chicken foot.

It was nothing at all like the liquidy, flowing script I had imagined.

Someone later said, “Where’d you get that cheap hunk of metal?”

I said, “Well, I was told it was silver.” He laughed as he fingered the necklace, then pointed out that real silver has a stamp on the back. Silver also doesn’t bend.

“Also, what is that thing on the ‘M’?”

I said it’s supposed to be a lotus flower. The man giggled.

“Looks like a chicken foot,” he said.

I saw the Bedouin man again and told him that the necklace was a fake. He called his guy, there were some angry words exchanged in Arabic, then he calmed. When he got off the phone, he explained, “It doesn’t have a stamp on the back because this man uses such pure silver that there is no such stamp for it. It’s the fake silver that has a stamp, because they want you to think it’s real.”

He continued, “And it bends because real silver is soft. Fake silver has other metals mixed with it to make it strong.”

I didn’t want to get into an argument because it wasn’t worth it. The Bedouin obviously wanted to trust his guy, and there was no way I was going to win. I would just have to suck this up as a mistake.

I’ve been wearing the necklace for the past week, as I’ve been burrowing in another part of Egypt. The metal is already starting to rust, of course, but I love it anyway.

I feel like it actually does represent me and who I am right now. A little weak but pliable. Beautiful despite the imperfections. Authentic and precious in my own way.

Best of all, this necklace proudly declares my name for all the world to see: Maggie Chickenfoot.