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Just do one thing

November 26, 2010

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about personal responsibility. Where do I fit in this big crazy world? What is my role? What should I be doing for my fellow humans?

Nothing illustrates that concept quite as well as the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg, South Africa.

The museum is exactly what you’d expect — emotional, educational, horrifying.

Stories of resiliency and heroism are squelched, stomped and strangled by pure evil and hatred. You’re left with barely any hope for humankind.

But then there is the last display.

It’s two piles of smooth stones, divided by a path. Visitors are encouraged to remove a stone from one pile and place it on the other. Of course, it doesn’t take long before one pile is considerably smaller, the other dramatically larger.

It is a simple statement, but it is a powerful one.

I started this trip with enormous plans to make a difference, change the world, have an impact. But several months into this journey, it’s been incredibly frustrating to see that the need is so great, and I am so small. It feels like I can’t do anything at all.

The Apartheid Museum changed my perspective.

See, change doesn’t come from one person doing a million things. It’s a million people doing one thing.

I think sometimes we try to make things more difficult than they really need to be — especially when it comes to sweeping concepts like hate, fear, power — but it’s really just that simple.

Everything you do has an impact. Every action matters. And if you need proof, think about all the tiny steps it took to end apartheid.

One stone on top of one stone eventually becomes a mountain.

 

Africa’s ubuntu

October 23, 2010

There’s an old saying that a single straw from a broom can be broken, but together they are strong.

The Africans call that ubuntu, the philosophy that we are all part of an interconnected web, rooted in acts of kindness and generosity. It means that the way we treat others is more important than our individual accomplishments.

Basically, you can’t be human all by yourself.

I’m seeing ubuntu everywhere as I travel throughout South Africa.

At Bulungula, a woman shared a piece of bread with her son, who in turn, tore it into four more pieces and gave it to his friends.

Inside a local shebeen (bar), the revelers happily slung a paint can full of sorgham beer my way, offering me a sip.

In Johannesburg, a generous couple fed me, opened their home to me and basically treated me as if I was family.

While trying to find the correct minibus in Durban, my friends were told the correct bus was located several blocks away. “Hop in,” the minibus driver said. “I’ll take you there.”

Those simple acts of kindness are hard to resist, and I’ve found myself being a little more open, letting my guard down more than usual. I finally gave in completely yesterday in Durban, when a man approached me on the street. He pointed at my oversized, reusable Nalgene water bottle.

“Can I have a sip?” he said.

It caught me off guard, so I asked him to repeat what he said.

“Your water. Can I have a sip?” Then he elaborated, “I have been eating the peanuts. They are very salty.”

He was a worker who shuttled people into the minibuses all day long. He worked on a block far from any cafe, restaurant or store. There really wasn’t any other water nearby. And even though the wary, distrusting part of me was screaming no, I handed the bottle over.

He drank nearly all of it, handed it back and beamed in delight. Then he said, “Sala,” which is Zulu for “Stay well.”

 

On bravery

October 22, 2010

I didn’t feel very brave when we encountered two puff adders flinging themselves across the hiking trail in TsiTsikamma. The deadly snakes were either in the throes of passion or the throes of violence — or perhaps a sadistic combination of the two.

Deborah walked right up to them, mere inches away, where snake venom could easily meet toe.

I was too nervous for that. As much as I wanted to get closer to the action, I couldn’t seem to make my feet go. So I stood back, relying on my camera’s zoom function to snag a few photos.

I did not feel very brave then. And because I endlessly compare myself with others, I wondered what was wrong with me. What was wrong with me? Why couldn’t I spit in danger’s face? Why was I such a wuss?

I thought about this for a long time, long after we made a wide path around the sexing snakes and walked away.

I’ve decided that courage wears different faces. Even though I can toss my worries away long enough to skydive, I don’t necessarily have the same kind of courage it takes to get within inches of unpredictable reptiles.

I also think this trip takes a lot of courage. Sometimes simply asking directions of a stranger, trusting them to send me in the right direction, can be an act of bravery. Sometimes it means walking into a laundromat, a post office or a grocery store when you don’t speak the language. Sometimes just venturing out of my hostel feels like the most brave thing in the world.

And that’s OK.

 

80 days later

September 25, 2010

It’s been 80 days since I ventured away from home and set off on the road.

In that time, Phileas Fogg made it all the way around the world, while I’ve only been through one continent. But, oh my, what a trip this has already been!

In that short period of time I’ve:

Been cleansed by a shaman.

Learned to shoot a blowgun with an Amazonian tribe.

Got cuddled by dozens of monkeys — and bitten by one.

Slept (poorly) on 9 overnight buses.

Hiked the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu with my husband.

Seen mummies, dinosaur footprints and the world’s largest salt flats.

Stayed out all night in Buenos Aires.

Had a Bolivian woman urinate on my backpack.

Seen pink dolphins.

Drank pisco in Pisco.

Flown over the Nazca lines.

Attended my first football game.

Spent the night with a family on Lake Titicaca.

Answered the eternal question — can bikini bottoms double as underwear?

Nearly purchased a rum distillery.

I’ve learned a lot about myself while traveling, but mostly I’ve learned a lot about the world. I still marvel over the fact that every day brings me to streets I’ve never seen before, surrounded by people I’ve never met, in places I never knew existed.

Before I began this trip I wondered how travel would change me, and now I wonder how it won’t.

Here’s to the next 80 days!

 

Peru wrap-up

August 13, 2010

Some call Peru “the catalog of the world,” and for good reason — the country boasts a little bit of everything.

I started this trip with some knowledge of that diversity, but I was still in awe of what I found. From deserts to thick rainforest canopies, Peru really does have it all. It’s a downright magical place.

I think I’ll always have a special place in my heart for this country. Not only is it the place where I leapt out of my old life and into my new career as round-the-world adventurer, but it’s also where I spent my honeymoon.

Together, The Husband and I tackled the Inca Trail, and he cheered me on when things got rough.

Together we explored the Amazon and saw things we never could have imagined. He also nursed all my bug bites with “dragon’s blood” from a shaman, including a few welts from a spider who was determined to know me intimately.

And together, we just spent a lot of time enjoying each other.

I know there’s value in solo travel and in traveling with your friends — both of which I’ll get to know better as this trip progresses.

But there was something particularly special about starting this journey with my new husband — and learning how love can grow even bigger in places we never expected.