I only knew Johannesburg from what I saw on the news as a little girl in the 1980s. Tanks rumbling through city streets, racial segregation and violence among the rubble.
It’s not fair, but those were the images that stuck with me, and it’s what I anticipated when I arrived in South Africa. Of course, the reality is a lot more complex and interesting than a 15-second clip on the nightly news. Not to mention, that was South Africa of the past, and the country has made great and wonderful strides toward a new future.
Unfortunately, many lovely Johannesburg homes are situated behind enormous walls, gates and coils of barbed wire, so I can’t really show you photos of those.
The city streets, however, are vibrant, colorful and electric — and welcoming to everyone.
This vegetarian has a confession to make — I love bunny chow.
Wait. Before you call PETA, you should know that no adorable, fluffy animals were harmed in the making of this post.
Bunny chow is a curry-licious South African specialty, invented in the coastal city of Durban. The area boasts a large community of Indian people, which makes for some of the most mouthwatering, spicy food this side of New Delhi.
Nobody knows exactly how bunny chow got its name — though there are a few theories — but rest assured, the dish doesn’t actually contain Peter Rabbit. It’s basically just curry served inside an enormous loaf of bread.
While you can get meaty versions of bunny chow, I can’t imagine why anyone would. The vegetable curries are laced with spice, rich with fragrance and heat — and eating them won’t make bunnies cry.
This isn’t the recipe for the bunny chow I had in Durban — the chef said it’s a closely guarded secret, probably because it was made of hellfire and Satan’s tears — but it’s close enough to give you an idea. A very mild idea.
YOU’LL NEED
1 butternut squash, diced
2 onions, diced
1 head cauliflower, cut into small pieces
2 tomatoes, diced
2 sweet potatoes, diced
5 potatoes, diced
1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
3-4 red or green chilies, depending on how hot you like it
1 T. chili oil
2 T. garlic, minced
2 curry or basil leaves, chopped
2 t. curry powder (or more, depending on taste)
1 T. canola oil
1 T. salt
2 cups water
2 loaves of bread
WHAT TO DO
In a pot, heat the oil. Add the garlic, chili and onions. Fry for a few minutes, until onions turn slightly translucent.
Add the tomatoes and fry for three more minutes.
Add the potatoes, squash, cauliflower and sweet potatoes. Add water and basil/curry leaves. Make sure all veggies are submerged under water.
Add the curry powder and salt to taste.
When the water boils, turn it on a low heat and let simmer for 90 minutes, stirring occasionally.
If the curry is still wastery after 90 minutes, mash some of the potatoes and stir. Curry should have a stew-like consistency.
Cut loaves of bread in half. From each half loaf, carve out the middle, leaving some bread on the bottom to form a bowl.
Fill the hole with curry and serve with the portion of bread that was removed.
My friends and I arrived at the Durban Art Gallery with just 10 minutes to spare before closing time.
“What should we see?” we asked the security guard.
“Actually, you can probably see the whole thing in 10 minutes,” he said. “Go!”
Off we went, tearing through the tiny exhibitions, running from room to room. True, it was small — we did see everything in 10 minutes — but the place was fantastic representation of African art.
We decided to hike from South Africa to Lesotho, a small, mountainous country known as Africa’s Switzerland — probably because it gets heaps of snow, not just because they make awesome hot chocolate.
The journey is a steep, 8 kilometer climb on a bumpy, gravel road.
About halfway up, my asthma got the better of me. We flagged down a passing minibus with a tour group inside and asked them for help.
After I explained my health issues, the tour guide reluctantly let me inside the vehicle. Then he frowned.
DRIVER: Where is your husband?
ME: He is at home in California.
DRIVER: What if you got sick and your husband wasn’t around?
ME: Well, I guess I would just try to get better on my own.
DRIVER: It is a good thing I gave you a ride so you don’t get sick.
ME: Yes, it is. Thank you. I appreciate it.
DRIVER: Because if I did not give you a ride and you got sick, your husband would be very angry with me and might kill me.
